Category Archives: Travel Thursday

[travelthursday] The end of the road

Last weekend I went to the end of the road and came back. And by the end of the road I mean I stared death in the eyes and survived…and I also went to the end of the road – highway 50 ends in roadblocks and a do not enter sign right after the turn off for the rafting place, and if you look at Google maps you will see Highway 50 literally just…ends.

Highway 50 ends near rouge riverWe had planned to camp the night before rafting, and I was prepared to rough it. To my surprise, Nouveau Monde‘s idea of “roughing it” involves a restaurant/bar, a swimming pool with poolside bar, a jacuzzi and a volleyball court. We roll up to the camp site and see in the parking lot a guy selling firewood. Perfect! We don’t even have to go to the store to get any. Unfortunately, he tells us in an indistinguishable (to us North Americans anyway) accent (is he an Aussie, a Brit, South African…?) that each bundle is $10. No thank you.

My friend Nina and I go in search of firewood (and something to cook over our camp fire!) and pass by a guy building a house. We noticed a big pile of chopped wood (as if he had recently cut down a tree just to get it out of the way) so we stopped by and asked if we could relieve him of the wood. Turns out the (very Québecois) man is building the house along with his 7 brothers, son, and nephew and they’re nearly finished! He said we could take all the wood we want, and even led us to a pile of scrap construction wood and helped us pile it all in the car. We returned to the campsite triumphant, proudly carrying the wood past the wood-seller (who we found out is from Worcester, England)’s truck, only to realize we’d failed in our main mission – pick up Liam from nearby town Montebello and transport him to the campsite.

An hour and a trip through the parking lot of the “Castle” of Montebello later, we have food, firewood, and good friends hanging round the campfire. There was a beautiful pathway built of wooden planks that snaked through the campsite. In the dark, it was hard to tell, but there was a slat missing halfway to our particular site. We joked that someone must have taken it for firewood. The next morning we were cleaning up our area and noticed that a piece of our firewood (or rather, the remains of it) had a couple of nails sticking out of it and was about the size of a slat for the walkway…whoops!

An 8 am breakfast was included in our coupon (did I mention this whole thing was only $45 from Groupon!?) and we rolled out of our tents and up to the lodge to stand in a food line reminiscent of middle school lunch-time for a choice of eggs or French toast. I should also mention that as luck would have it, I was recently gifted two amazing tents from friends of friends Matt and Joanne, who didn’t need them anymore, saving me from an investment I can’t make at the moment.

After breakfast, we filled out our forms, fussed over wetsuits/booties/just wearing a bathing suit, then piled onto an old school bus with helmets, life-jackets and paddles in hand. We arrive at the launch point and discover that our guide is a Québecois guy who goes by the name Sou and has green plastic grass duct-taped to his helmet. Looks like we won the cool-guide lottery [insert witty allusion to Johnny Cash song, Boy Named Sue]. He starts off the trip by telling us that rules are made to be “used and abused.” He definitely followed that philosophy during most of the run, letting us “surf” in rapids two or three times in a row, as other rafts just kept floating downstream. At one point, he let us sit in the rapid for so long that the other rafts behind us started to line up, and we got several angry glares.

White Water Rafting with Nouveau MondeSou led us through all the good rapids and most fun routes. At one point he tells us all to close our eyes and just to trust him as we ploughed forward. He yells “OK open your eyes!” just a split second before we run headfirst into a huge rock. “I didn’t used to say ‘open your eyes’ at all until a lady smashed her face once” Sou told us. We all chuckled nervously.

The only bad thing about bending the rules is the inevitable painful experiences. Our third time surfing a class four rapid, everyone except Yichao was thrown from the raft. I nearly stayed in except that one of the two people in our raft that didn’t come with our group, a middle-aged woman who told us she and her husband, also in our raft, had moved from Florida to Montreal to retire (sounds kinda backwards if you ask me), was launched from the other side of the raft and, perhaps in an effort to stay in the raft, caught me in the chest with her forearm and propelled me backwards into the water. The impact knocked the wind out of me, and I gasped immediately. Unfortunately I was already underwater at that point, so I just gasped in a bunch of water. The next thirty seconds were probably the closest to death I have ever felt (though realistically I know I had on a life jacket, there were trained guides all around, yada yada), and when I finally resurfaced, I still couldn’t breath because of all the water I breathed in. I kept doing the hiccup breath, unable to really draw in any air. I looked up and Sou was yelling at me to swim towards the boat, so I clutched my paddle (somehow still in my grasp) and swam like my life depended on it towards the raft. White Water Rafting with Nouveau Monde

After that experience, I was significantly more spooked about the rapids. “Are you scared?” the Florida woman asked me the first time we headed back into the class four, “nope,” I replied, and I meant it. Had she asked me the same question after that fall, the answer would have been very different. Towards the end of the run, Sou pointed our raft back into a rapid and positioned it so that we flipped over completely, propelling us through the air. This time I was more prepared for the subsequent turmoil. I let go of my paddle and tried to float on my back as I had been instructed. Somehow I managed to get stuck under the raft for a second. Let’s just say, being stuck underwater and feeling something preventing you from surfacing doesn’t exactly give you a feeling of joy. But I got through it, and in no time we were all back in the boat paddling to the next rapid.

White Water Rafting on the Rouge RiverAt the end of the day, we returned to the compound, chilled by the pool and played some volleyball with some cool Quebecois guys and girls. On the drive back to Montreal, everyone napped. When I finally fell into bed that night it was the best sleep I’d had in months.

Unfortunately my camera got quite water-logged and is still recovering, so for now you’ll have to settle for the professional photos that we bought. Will add more pics as soon as my camera functions properly again!

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[travelthursday] Happiness for $3.50

I know, I know…I’ve been terribly slack this week, what with no Music Monday post and all. But things have been quite busy lately – I have finally decided for sure to leave Montreal and return home come September 1st! So you will get all kinds of posts in the weeks to come as I will be driving back to South Carolina.

Wildflowers Marché Fermier Montreal PlateauIn any case, I do have a pretty sweet travel post for this week. Earlier this week I was walking home after a great Yoga class at my place of work, Yoga-à-Porter, when I decided to walk by the little stretch of green, Parc Lahaie, on St. Joseph and St. Laurent.

To my surprise, the Marché Fermier was up! I had previously thought it was open only on Thursdays. As I was walking through the market, one stand in particular caught my eye. In front of the table, a girl was holding a small bouquet of flowers, and I noticed that they had the flowers for sale.

“How much was that bouquet?” I asked the girl.

“3-50,” she replied, “really reasonable, right?” That sold me. I looked at the wild flowers – beautiful big yellow ones, small fluffy purple ones, leafy red ones. They did look a little wilted, but I was in one of those moods – you know, where the smallest things can make you happy all day – so I started picking out my bouquet.

After I had made my choice, I emptied my change-purse, only to find that I had exactly $3.45! I looked at the merchant, “Is $3.45 okay?” I asked.

“That’s perfect,” he said, a soft drawl sneaking into his voice, “actually, I overcharged you.” He smiled at me, and I walked off with a little slice of happiness for less than 4 bucks.

The Marché Fermier is great because you can buy fresh fruits and vegetables as well as cheeses, breads, and plenty of other local products for much cheaper than in a grocery store or épicerie. As I passed through the market, there was even a guy playing the banjo – and very well, I might add! Just walking through the market made me feel much more connected with nature, and later I had fun imagining myself frolicking in beautiful fields of wildflowers with the faint sound of a banjo coming from somewhere and not a single care in the world.

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[travelthursday] 6,000 feet of rocks and stuff

This is more than a day late, yada yada, I know. I’ve just been trying to increase the level of suspense. Really.

So let me tell you a little story about two girls who didn’t know each other very well and decided to hike the tallest mountain in the NE and then almost died (not really, but that sounds like a good story, amiright!?).

Conquered Mount Washington...almost

just finished my gymnastics routine

My friend Ally and I drove 4 hours from the great city of Monteal, QC all the way to New Hampshire just to hike a mountain. But not just any mountain, we hiked Mount Washington, the highest peak in the Northeast USA. Funny, now that I think about it, it took just as long to hike from the bottom to the top as it took to drive from Montreal to NH. Let’s just say we had some issues we didn’t anticipate.

It all started at the grocery store…or rather, Mac’s Market. We were browsing the isles the day before the hike – Ottawa native Ally was oggling the 13 types of cheez-its American grocers stock (I refrained from sparking a conversation about Easy Cheese) and I was deciding on the flavor of beef jerky to buy, when an idea came to me. “You know what we should get?” I said to Ally, “No camping experience is complete without Franzia.” I couldn’t have been more wrong right. What I didn’t consider at the time was the fact that we were hiking Mount Washington the next morning (did I mention it’s over 6000 feet high? Yeah, I didn’t think I so).

So we pulled into Dolly Copp campground just before dark and started setting up camp. Ally set up the tent and I built a fire. There were dry sticks a-plenty around us, but we could have really used some real firewood! Just a note – most campground will sell you firewood, but you have to get there before their office closes most of the time. So we were SOL in that department. Luckily, Ally pulled some she-woman moves and pulled up some serious stumps so we were set. After cooking our Yves veggie burgers on the grill at the site, we played some guitar and made s’mores (both staples of the camping experience). We chatted until the fire died down and then rekindled it and ate some more marshmallows. The second time the fire died, we decided to call it a night and headed to the tent.

The next morning I’m up around 8 with that “don’t eat anything funny” feeling in my stomach and the “don’t move too quickly” feeling in my head. Ally is still asleep. After changing into some clean clothes, I rebuild the fire and then fumble around in the car for a bit to find something to cook our egg whites in. I know Ally said she brought a pan, but this pot will have to do. I pop a couple Advil and put everything edible that I can find into the pot with the egg whites.

After breakfast, Ally headed back in the tent for a nap. I cleaned up our campsite a bit then headed to the bath house to wash up. On my way back, I found a dumpster and chucked out the rest of the Franzia. There’d be no more drinking from that box that’s for sure.

When I got back, I woke Ally up and made a proposal: “Look, I know we came here to hike Mount Washington, and I really do want to do it; however we may need to accept our current hungover state and just drive to the top instead.” Ally looked at me indignantly, “No way, we came here to hike, we are going to hike! I know I’ll be disappointed if we don’t.” And with that it was settled, we were going to hike Mount Washington hungover.

Beginning of Hike Mount Washington

Us before we got tired

At first, the hike was not that bad. The rocky dirt path climbed slowly but steadily upwards, and we chatted a bit and played brain games. But soon the path became a stream of boulders, and we were out of breath, so we stopped on a bridge over the stream we’d been following to have a bit of the teriyaki beef jerky I’d picked out. It was surprisingly delicious. Feeling rejuvenated, we picked ourselves back up and continued up the mountain. We met plenty of people hiking back down the mountain. When we asked how much longer to the top, each person seemed less optimistic than the last – could it be possible that we were climbing to infinity and the path was just an endless staircase to nowhere?

Steep trail Mount Washington

Steep trail

Halfway up we came across a ravine with a little cabin and deck with tables. There were toilet houses close by, which was a nice relief. We also came across a real-life hand pumped well hidden off in the woods. It took a good 15-20 pumps, but once I got to taste the water, it was some of the freshest, most pure-tasting liquid I’ve ever experienced in my life. We refilled our water bottles and continued on our way.

Fresh Spring Water Pump Mount Washington

Fresh Spring water pumped from the well in the woods

In no time, we were past the tree line and were just climbing rocks – using our hands almost as much as our feet because of how vertical the climb had become. About 3/4 of the way up, we came across this miniature mount that from far off looked like the mount where Boromir dies in LOTR, although by the time we reached the top it looked more like mount where Frodo gets stabbed by one of the Ring Wraiths. (Let’s just say this hike involved plenty of LOTR references).

Hill on Mount Washington, NH

Is this where Boromir died?

Top of Hill Mount Washington

Is this where Frodo was stabbed?

As we reached the top of this mini-mount, we had begun to ascend into the cloud that surrounded the top of the mountain. It felt like rain, but was really just mist/fog. The path flattened out for a few minutes, and then the real climb began.

Level Trail Mount Washington, NH

Trail levels out

Ally and I stood for a second, staring up at the completely vertical climb over sharp, moss-covered rocks, trying to identify the best route. Finally, we just said “screw it” and started climbing, doing our best not to look behind us at the long drop over sharp rocks and into the mist that had by now completely engulfed us. “It feels like we’re on a movie set,” I said.

Sharp Rocks, Mist, Fog Mount Washington

rocks and mist

I found it to be more and more difficult to continue to climb, but I forced my legs and arms forward, using all four limbs equally to haul myself up the side of this mountain. Finally, we relocated the path, and it became more sloping. A few minutes later, we passed two hikers on their way down. “How much farther to the top?” I croaked. “Oh, have you guys come all the way from the bottom!? It’s not much farther at all. Maybe two minutes! Good luck.” Two minutes. Best news all day. I could do two minutes.

Finally, we reach the ridge of the mountain – there is literally a ridge, as if you’re in a bowl or a volcano. We went across the top, only to find…a road. Then, stairs.

Stairs at top of Mount Washington, New Hampshire

Got to the top only to find...stairs!

“We have to go to the real summit!” Ally exclaimed, and proceeded to climb the stairs and practically jog to the mound of rocks with a sign on top proclaiming, “Mount Washington Summit.” We got there only to be asked by a rather overweight New Hampshire tourist if we could take her picture next to the sign. And I have to say, New Hampshirites, you guys have the weirdest accents. Afterwards, the NH lady returned the favor, then we went to check out the old hotel, The Summit House, which was opened in 1852.

Girls hike to Mount Washington summit

We are triumphant!

We left the hotel and spotted a snack bar, which was convenient considering I had a craving for a Snickers Bar (as you do after a long hike, right?). We were feeling pretty dead by then, so we just trudged without talking through the mist (did I mention it was about 45 degrees at the summit?) to the snack bar.

Snack bar at Mount Washington

Hungry? Why Wait?

We inquired about the shuttle down – $45 per person! Can you believe that!? After snacking and staring into space for a bit, we checked out the gift shop and the small museum then headed to the parking lot to see if we could catch a ride down. Luckily, a nice middle-aged Quebecois couple agreed to give us a ride to the bottom, and we got to ride down with the heat on, listening to an informative CD in French and napping off/on. I think that was the most relaxing car ride I have ever experienced in my life.