Tag Archives: quebec city

Quebec City: Everyone’s at the free Cirque du Soleil show

Quebec City, day 2. Kim and I have taken our time getting up and head back to St. Joseph street around 10:30 to find breakfast. End up eating the most amazing sesame seed baguette sandwiches at this little boulangerie not far down the road called La Boîte à Pain. I have found baguette sandwiches in Montreal, but nothing ever came close to what you can find in France. This sandwich did more than come close; it surpassed the French version. Definitely recommend this place for breakfast/lunch/snack/just to enjoy the smell.

Architecture/Painting in Quebec City

Afterwards we returned to Jean-François’s apartment, packed our things, thanked our host and jumped in the car to locate our next airbnb residence. This time we had to cross the river to the south shore, ville de Lévis. After a bit of confusion, we got on the ferry and headed across the river.

On the Ferry View of Chateau Frontenac

A few hours and two ferry rides later we were parked and back on the Quebec side of the river, looking for something to do. Jean-François had left us a nice long note about the best places to see and some cool events happening in the city. We decided to go look at some of the historic buildings and find somewhere to grab a pint. We wandered up this cute winding cobblestone street, and heard some smooth jazz music coming from an open door not far away.

I peeked my head around the door. “Are you open?” I asked in French of the elderly bartender (there was no one in the bar and it sounded like the band might just be practicing). He chuckled and said, “Oui, oui bien sûr.” After ordering a pair of Boreale blondes, we decided to sit and play a game of chess while listening to the band – who, it turned out, were three teenagers (at least one of which was probably related to the bartender) – who were still working on their routine. Regardless, they were pretty good, and we enjoyed their music. We asked the bartender to take a photo for us – it’s not the best quality, but definitely a fun memento!

Playing Chess in a Jazz bar in Quebec City

After our game of chess, we decided to go see the free Cirque du Soleil show down near the river that was being performed under a huge highway overpass (maybe that’s why the bar is empty? Everyone’s at the Cirque du Soleil show?).

Crowd at Cirque du Soleil show in Quebec City

We arrive at the show 15 mins or so later after getting directions from a very friendly pedestrian carrying a soccer ball and a gym bag. Things are just picking up – costumed performers are walking through the standing audience, and a couple of them jump up on stage, shouting into megaphones. They directed us to dance, jump, wave our arms, and do the wave. Then, once they had everybody’s attention, more and more performers gathered onstage and began their first choreographed dance of the evening. As always, the Cirque du Soleil performance was very…fun. Their costumes were silly and fancy all at once, and the characters didn’t so much talk as emit noise. Throughout the show, there were firedancers, hula hoopers, flying trapezists, and a number of other dancers, musicians, and clowns. My favorite part was a number that included a few trampolines that at first were out of site, so when you see the first guy fall, it doesn’t look purposeful. But then he bounces right back up and other performers join in. Though the show was pretty short – only about 45 minutes long, it was still amazing that we got to see Cirque du Soleil for free! Where else can you achieve that feat?

Cirque du Soleil Performers in Quebec City

After the show, we ate smoked meat at a little restaurant on the way back to the ferry (this is a Montreal must, btw) and caught the bus home. The next day we drove through the old city to see the sites we missed before – the boardwalk in front of Chateau Frontenac,Boardwalk at Castle Frontenac in Quebec City Rue St. Jean,Rue St. Jean Quebec City the Old Port market, Old Port Market in Quebec Cityan art fair we just happened upon near the Grand Allée, Art Fair in Quebec Citya cute garden with a statue of Joan of Arc, Garden with Joan of Arc Statue in Quebec Cityand a cool park with a historical lookout. Park, Historical Lookout Quebec CityCheck out the beautiful views!

 

Quebec City: Le Cercle and bad punk bands

Quebec City Bridge

After passing through rural Quebec (and passing by plenty of funny road signs), Kim and I finally pulled up to our host, Jean-François’s apartment in Quebec City (who we found through airbnb btw). Right away we noticed that this part of the city seemed extremely quiet – very few people walked in the streets, and the buildings, though quaint, seemed cold and barren.

Our Street Quebec City

But as we walked into the apartment (after a slight mix-up locating the keys) we noticed our temporary neighbors were seriously rocking out. We could hear them in our rented 2nd-floor apartment and they were…surprisingly good…and playing what sounded like folk/rock. Kim and I concluded that because the city is habitually so cold, people must just get used to staying indoors all the time.

Jean François’s apartment was pretty cool – it came equipped with a piano, two (at least) sitars, and a number of other interesting objects. His guest bedroom, where Kim and I stayed, was filled with interesting books and his whole apartment was covered in posters and neat photographs. This must be an indie town afterall!

We followed his advice and ate at Le Cercle, a restaurant/new age art gallery/club/bar on St. Joseph’s and had some delicious appetizers (the main courses were a bit pricey). But our meal was incredible – sliced yellow beets with goat cheese and walnuts and a fancy kind of ham (I’ve forgotten what it’s called) sliced to dip in a delectable spicy stone-ground mustard. The food was top, waitstaff were beautiful (or maybe it’s just this city), and there was even an art “exhibit” projected onto three huge screens that were suspended from the (very high) ceiling.

After dinner we asked the waiter what we should do afterwards since we didn’t know the area. He suggested we go to the adjacent club, LézArts (a play on the word “lézard” and “les arts”), which was having a free punk show that would be airing on a local Quebec TV station that promotes new music (!).

So after dinner, Kim and I walked next door to check it out, only to find that due to some technical difficulties, the band was not playing yet. We chatted to a guy near the door for a little while and asked him about the area. “The clubs on the top of the hill tend to have more douchebags,” he said, pretending to pop his non-existent collar. “Down here there are more indie types, but nobody seems to like to dance,” he imitated a stiff-legged, cross-armed indie kid, glancing around with his nose in the air. Kim and I laughed. Guess some things aren’t that different even in other countries.

When the band finally started up, we listened to a song or two, jumping and dancing around (and consequently being stared at). During a pause Kim looked at me, “This band is awful,” she said. “Idunno, I think they’re just punk,” I said. We listened to another song or two – the bassist wailing on his two chords, the guitarist trying ridiculous off-rhythm solos, and the drummer almost succeeding at drowning the other two musicians out. Kim looked at me, “No, I think they’re just talentless,” she said. This time I couldn’t help but agree. We asked our new friend, Christian, if he knew of a better place to go. “Yup! and it’s not far from here, 3 blocks maybe, called La Cuisine.”

So we ditched the bar right as the band was ending – apparently they were only playing for 30 minutes – and headed to La Cuisine, which turned out not to be the most happenin place…BUT we did get to play some old school NES and meet Christian’s arty friends. We called it a night not soon afterwards and headed back to the apartment. Tomorrow, day two in Quebec City!

Thanks again to Kim for the pics!